Showing posts with label Sikh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sikh. Show all posts

Saturday, October 10, 2015

October 31, 1984: The night of my brother's right stuff.

Moments of shared history. For Indians, especially Sikhs, October 31, 1984 is such a day. Seared in my memory, a date of ignominy with only a tinge of fraternal quick-wittedness tempering some of its horror.

A day of rumors. Something had happened to Indira Gandhi. Rushed to AIIMS or Safdarjung, she was sick or wounded or dead. All day long, rumors swirled, thickening, thinning, like flocks of birds. Then it came, the moment of truth. Wasn't it 6PM when All India Radio officially announced? Indira Gandhi was dead, shot and killed by her own Sikh body guards.

Didn't the riots begin almost instantaneously? Living so close to AIIMS and Safdarjung, rush upstairs to the roof, climb atop the water tanks. Against the setting sun, a memory of smoke rising from among the many high-end fashion stores in the distance. Isn't that Perfection Silk and Saree House, the smoke a sign of its demise? Isn't it owned by a Sikh?  Chilling portent of the coming evil hours. Soon, not one but several smoke stacks rise up into the sky. People mill around in the street, talking. Then the distant non-stop strum. Takes a while to understand it's the sound of rioting humans.

Maybe speak briefly with Jyoti, our Sikh landlord's grandson and his mom, Manoranjana? That day, they had visitors from Punjab, the heartland of Sikhs. Also seared in my memory? The first P on their visitors' Ambassador car's license plate.

How did my brother do it? The front gate, flanked by two posts with glass encased bulbs that lit up at night, one displaying the address, the other, the names including our landlord's, unmistakably Sikh. Suddenly, as the rioters grew ever louder, nearer, he picks up a paving brick from the garden and smashes the glass and bulb. Dark. Name display gone. Next, another inspired act. From the thelawala's ironing stand out on the street, takes a piece of coal and, in the thickening darkness, quickly changes the tell-tale P in the visitor car's license plate to B. Back then, with Mumbai still Bombay, it could be a Bombay car in the driveway. Wouldn't pass muster in light but at night? Fingers crossed.

Marauding rioters run past. Shouting gleefully, arms filled with goods from freshly looted stores. No reason to stop. No Sikh in sight. No sign this is even a Sikh house. Some even graciously share their loot, throwing designer shoes and sarees onto the lawns as they run past. A macabre vista of the end of days? Surely it would be something like this.

All night, our landlords hide upstairs in/ behind the roof-top water tanks. Next morning, I hear friends drove up in the dark of night, around 2:30 or 3. Stealing out, crouching below the car seats, spirited away to a safe house.

As the smoke cleared over the next few days, it also became clear we'd lived through a genocide. The Sikh genocide. Thousands of Sikhs were mercilessly slaughtered that day and the days that followed, certainly thousands in Delhi alone. Beaten up and burned alive as they made their innocent way home from work.

2009. Jyoti's working in Chennai and he, Manoranjana aunty and Jyoti's wife drop by the evening I'm flying back to the US. Now Jyoti has two kids of his own. A boy and a girl. A future materialized, a future that hung in the balance the day Indira Gandhi died. My brother recalls smashing the glass but surprisingly, he forgot changing the license plate but Manoranjana aunty hasn't. She reminds him.

My brother's quick thinking likely saved lives that night. The lives of our Sikh landlords. How did he do it? Still can't answer. The world suddenly topsy-turvy. Lives in the balance. Can't be sure what to do, let alone do right. A moment of reckoning. Instinctual, visceral? Maybe, but what my brother did on the night of October 31, 1984 was the right stuff, then and forever. The right stuff that precariously separates the civilized from the bestial.


https://tirumalaikamala.quora.com/October-31-1984-The-night-of-my-brothers-right-stuff


Saturday, October 3, 2015

Peerless hospitality: My childhood experience taught me it can be none other than Sikh hospitality

I've never forgotten that first whiff of 'milagu rasam' (Mulligatawny) that wafted through the doors of our new home as I stepped out of the taxi from the railway station. A divine smell that immediately transported me back to the only home I'd known thus far. I was 7 years old and I'd just left behind everything familiar. We'd moved to Delhi following my father's transfer there.

I'm South Indian and 'milagu rasam' is a staple South Indian dish. Delhi, the capital of India, on the other hand, is far in the North. Different language, different cuisine to name just two stark differences.

The house. Our landlords, a Sikh family, lived downstairs. We'd be living upstairs. That entirely unexpected 'milagu rasam' smell? The doing of our landlady. People in the neighborhood called her 'Mataji' meaning respected mother. Deserve that affectionate nickname? I learned soon enough that she embodied it.

She'd be meeting us for the first time that day. That was no obstacle to her vast, innate generosity. Knowing we'd have traveled a long distance and likely would be tired and hungry, she'd taken it upon herself to call on a South Indian neighbor and learn from her how to prepare a typical South Indian (Tamil) meal. A delicious surprise indeed!

We step into the house and there's the freshly cooked, aromatic South Indian meal ready and waiting for us. Soft white rice cooked to perfection, Dal (yellow lentils), Sambar (dish) (lentil stew) and of course steam rising from the 'milagu rasam'. Not just these but all the traditional South Indian accompaniments. Papadum, yogurt, mango pickle, the works. One of the most memorable meals I've ever eaten. Such a gracious welcome, I still tear up whenever I think about it. Ever since, for me peerless hospitality means Sikh hospitality.

Long gone but evergreen in my memory, Mataji, the very embodiment of an enveloping warmth like none other. Language, mannerisms, cuisine, religion, apparel. All different yet all rendered inconsequential by this simple gesture of boundless hospitality. Stitched with indelible warmth and generosity, it's deservedly a memory to last a lifetime.

It's June 2015, the 40th anniversary of Indira Gandhi's extraordinary decision to declare Emergency and many in the Indian media are reminiscing about their experience of that inflection point in India's modern history. Among all those, the one that resonates perfectly with my experience is this piece, not about the Emergency but about another Indira Gandhi-triggered inflection point in 1984, and yet it's also about peerless Sikh hospitality, peerless even in the most arduous of circumstances.
The Story I Did Not Report In ’84


https://tirumalaikamala.quora.com/Peerless-hospitality-My-childhood-experience-taught-me-it-can-be-none-other-than-Sikh-hospitality